Construction Guide

This chapter includes techniques for plumbing specific to a Yankee Barn post and beam home.
As with any construction, the goal is concealing and/or camouflaging the pipes. In any construction, plumbing pipes should not be run in outside walls because of the risk of freezing, and the reduction of insulation value. Most pipes can be run in interior walls, partitions, and floors using standard building practices. Vaulted ceiling areas and large open areas have less structure to use for concealing the pipes. This chapter offers suggestions for running vent pipes, and the supply and waste lines for second floor baths in a Yankee Barn.

It has been Yankee Barn’s experience that formal plans for plumbing are unnecessary for most residential construction. Plumbers have a number of code and technical issues as well as their own preferences which guide how they install their systems. The Yankee Barn technical staff can be a very helpful resource for your local plumber.
For plumbing, the main issues are routing the waste lines and vent stacks. The easiest way to run these lines is often not the most aesthetically pleasing. Be sure to find out where the plumber plans to run the waste and vent lines before he installs them. If they will involve unsightly chases to box in the lines, discuss alternatives. Yankee Barn’s technical staff can assist with ideas.

Generally, with the conventional second floor system and the designation of a plumbing wall, your home can be plumbed using traditional techniques. Feeds and drains serving the second floor can usually be run between the 2x8 joists in the Yankee Barn floors systems. Occasionally, it may be necessary to drop a section of the ceiling to accommodate the waste pipes. If the plumber wants to run pipes through a beam, he should call to consult the technical department to determine if he can drill the beam, move or remove the beam, or must reroute the plumbing. Over the living room or dining room, the use of a back flush toilet may eliminate the need for dropped ceiling.

If a second floor bath lines up with a partition wall or closet on the first floor, then the drains may be concealed in the wall or closet. More often the drains must be run through the floor.
The Yankee Barn floor system is framed with 2x8 joists (occasionally 2x6 joists, check your specifications), and the bottoms are left open to simplify plumbing. Often the plumber can run his drain pipes between the 2x8 joists, or through them (code permitting, 2" pipe is the maximum size that can be run through 2x8 joists). Sometimes the joists can be headed off (similar to a fireplace or stair opening) to allow the larger waste pipes to run perpendicular to the joists until the pipe reaches a partition to drop down. Remember to have your carpenter head off and reframe any joists which must be cut.
If the plumbing lines cannot be hidden in the floor system or in a closet or soffit, there are four alternatives.

1. Build a chase vertically or a false beam horizontally to conceal the pipes. Yankee Barn will send extra beam slabs to create a dummy beam upon request.
2. Build a dropped ceiling to conceal the pipes. Extra framing can be added below the 2x8 joists, or occasionally where there is a long run of 4" pipe running perpendicular to the joists, builders have used 2x10 joists running parallel to the floor beams. The new joists must be supported at both ends with beams or headers with joist hangers.
3. Build the second floor bath on a platform, so pipes can run underneath the false floor.
4. Use a backflush toilet so the waste pipe is run straight back into the partition behind the toilet (the partition may need to be 2x6 or 2x8.)

Waste lines carry the waste down to the sewer. Vents carry sewer gases out through the roof of the house. Every plumbing fixture needs to be connected to a vent. Vents can usually be run through partition walls to the roof. In some cases, they may have to run along an outside wall and be boxed in with drywall or boards to match your beams.
Island vents and mechanical vents may be very effective alternatives to conventional vents, especially in kitchen areas and ell baths where there are often no convenient walls to hide conventional vents. Island venting allows you to relocate or decrease the number of vents. The vent is installed slightly higher than the fixture drain and then drops down below the floor system where it travels horizontally until it can be tied into another vent or relocated to a different part of the building. These are particularly useful in getting vents relocated away from skylights, decks or doors. (Codes often specify minimum distances between vent pipes and operating skylights and windows.)
Review your plans and our suggested plumbing details with your plumber to fully explore the possible alternatives before the rough-in work begins.