Construction Guide

This chapter discusses the raising of your Yankee Barn frame on your site.

Timber Frame Installation- Quick Guide
What you Need:

• 2x4x16' for bracing and blocking.
• Framing nail guns with 8d and 16d galvanized nails.
• 16d duplex nails, 20d nails, 20d finish nails, 8", 12", 14" screws (supplied with kit).
• 5/16"x12" drill bits.
• 6' level.
• 10,000# Telescoping boom lift (Minumin) with stabilizers, four wheel steering and Truss Jib.
• Pipe staging or site built staging, step ladders, extension ladders.
• 4 carpenters/ laborers plus YBH Shell Assembly Specialist.
  What You Will Do

1. Check that deck is square and level and all blocking and cellar columns are installed.
2. Consulting the timber frame plans and floor plans, snap chalk lines to lay out post locations.
3. Starting at one gable end, lay gable end posts out on the deck, install the girts and stand the gable assembly up plumb. Move post base to marked locations, toe nail to deck, plumb and brace the posts.
4. Repeat for other gable end.
5. Stand eave wall post, toe nail, and brace.
6. Install girts and string line the perimeter to straighten exterior face at girt line.
7. Check frame for square at second floor level and install second floor joists and plywood.
8. Plumb second floor posts and install the two roof beam lines, tie beams, ridge posts and ridge.
9. Install top plates at perimeter of exterior walls.
10. String line the outside edge of the roof beam lines and carefully brace. Repeat for the top of eave wall at the plate level.
11. Install gable end rafters (FGR's).

3.2.1 Frame Layout Plan

Your frame layout plan contains five important pages showing details of your structural frame:

1. Layout for first floor structural posts and for structural beams supporting the second floor, with individual piece numbers and finished heights (page Z 1.1).
2. Layout for structural beams above the second floor, with individual piece numbers and finished heights (page Z 1.2).
3. Page of fastening details for the frame (page 100C).
4. Page of isometric drawings of posts, girts and floor beams (page Z 1.3).
5. Page of isometric drawings of plates and roof beams (page Z 1.4).

These plans show the location for each timber, along with its piece number.

3.2.2 Structural Frame Legend
Each end of a timber will be marked with its use code—a piece number— and the number of the adjacent piece for that end. In addition, the top of the timber will be marked “top."
As an example: a 6" x 10" timber is marked on one end – FB21-70 and FB21-69 on the other. This tells us that the piece is Floor Beam #21. One end connects to piece #69 and the other connects to piece #70, as found on the Isometric plan.
Or a 4" x 10" timber is marked G29-77 on one end and G29-66 on the other end. This tells us that the piece is Girt #29. One end connects to piece #77 and the other to piece #66.
Posts would be labeled with the letter P and a piece number. An arrow on the top should always point to the “0” line and align with the arrow on the layout plan.
A framing plan set is shipped with your construction blueprints in the “grocery box”.

3.2.3 Exploded Isometric Views and Shop Drawings Sheets
There are two sets of exploded isometric views for each house (an isometric view is a 3-D “bird’s eye” view of the frame). The first (p. Z1.3) includes girts, floor beams, and all the first floor posts. The second (p. Z1.4) includes plates, roof beams, ridge beams, gable rafters, attic and dormer frame members, and second floor posts. These exploded views show the frame at each level, pulled apart in space. The frame members are labeled by group for ease of reading. Connection lines have been added between the frame pieces to insure correct assembly. Also each isometric layout has a viewing direction which is used to understand the orientation of the individual frame member shop drawings. This viewing direction is also present on the frame layout pages.

3.2.4 Tolerances
Certain critical dimensions must be held precisely. The accuracy with which the frame is aligned will directly affect the fit of the wall and roof panels. Slight adjustments may have to be made for proper fit, but it is important to hold the critical dimensions +/- 1/8". When checking long dimensions, avoid tape sag or running over blocking and debris that can give false readings and try to use the same tape for all checking.

3.2.5 Fasteners
Where visible, the timber frame is held together with Log Screws that are countersunk and plugged. Most areas will not need countersunk and plugged screws.

Because the timbers are dry and dense, you will find that it may be necessary to predrill to prevent splitting of the frame. This is done after the joints have been touched up, immediately before driving in the screws. Refer to Appendix A for Recommended Drill Bit Sizes.

Because the structural frame for your Yankee Barn has been carefully precut and notched at our workshop, you will find that the assembly of your frame is a relatively simple and straight-forward process. Through over 30 years of experience with timber framing, we have developed an approach which can be used easily by an experienced builder.
Note that the numbers shown on your blueprints for each post and beam will correspond to the numbers marked on the end of each timber.
We plane each beam to a designated dimension, but you may have the occasional uneven fit due to twist in the beams. As you fit the individual connections, it is important to keep the outside surfaces of the perimeter posts and beams in alignment so that the wall panels will fit flush against the timbers. Other critical dimensions include the specified heights to the tops of the second floor support beams and to the tops of the beams which support the roof panels. These beams must be level and at their proper heights.

The following instructions relate specifically to most Yankee Barn frames. The Carriage House, Studio Cape and Studio Saltbox frames have a somewhat different timber framing system. Those differences, as they affect raising of the frame, are discussed in Section 3.5 Framing Variations. Buildings with a partial frame have variations in the framing which are discussed in section 3.6. Refer to the nailing details sent with your construction plans for suggested nailing patterns at the various framing connections. Remember to predrill!

Full timber frame with closed wall panels:

1. Mark post locations on the deck. Referring to the First Floor Structural frame plan (Z1.1), layout the first floor post locations on a clean deck. In most cases (2"x6" walls), the outside posts will sit 6" in from the outside of the first deck framing, but check the plans carefully for variations of this measurement (such as double CDX sheathing on some of the walls with a lot of windows).
   Measure in the designated wall thickness at each end of an eave wall, and snap a tight chalk line. Then, measure from the line the width of the frame, to the opposite side of the building, and check for the designated setback on that side.
   Repeat the process for each gable end. Then, mark and snap lines for the intermediate posts along the floor beam line. Mark the location of each post with an "X" and label the location to the side so it remains visible after the post is set. The post alignment is critical so extra care at this step will prevent problems later.
2. At one gable end, lay the gable posts out on the deck with the bottom ends in position and the top ends pointing toward the opposite end of the house. The outer faces of the posts should be facing upward. The arrows marked on the post ends should match the orientation shown on the plans. The snapped chalk lines should provide good alignment guides.
3. Check measurements between posts and the length of the girts for fit. Trim, if necessary, and nail in place (these connections are all hidden by the wall panels). Check the openings between posts for square by taking diagonal measurements, and brace in place with dimensional lumber.
4. Solidly nail blocks to the outside of the rim band at each post location and tip the frame up against these blocks. Pull the frame back to the inside of the snapped line and toe-nail in place. Rough plumb and brace the frame.
5. Repeat for the other gable end.
Gable End Frame

6. Locate and place the eave wall posts. Check the length and height of the eave wall girts at the second floor level and nail in place. Be sure to maintain the post to post and the overall length at the post base and the girt line. The exterior surfaces of girts and posts should be flush with one another.
7. When all the perimeter posts and girts are installed, check the corners for plumb in two directions and brace well. Then string line the exterior of the walls at the girt line and plumb intermediate posts to provide straight lines.
Eave Post

Girts

8. Set the interior structural posts and floor beams (the neavy timbers that run end to end along the pairs of center posts), trimming as necessary, and be sure to maintain the tops at the height indicated on the plans. Then install all connecting floor beams. Brace frame fully.
Interior Posts and Floor Beams

For the second floor, Yankee Barn provides conventional floor joists or wood I-beams shipped loose to be installed by the builder on site. Construction assembly is similar to normal stick construction. When completed, the sub-floor is in place, ready for finish flooring such as Yankee Barn random width Southern Yellow Pine or wall-to-wall carpeting.
2x10 joists are standard in most Yankee Barns. After January, 2007, open web joists at 9 1/4" will be supplied for the second floor framing unless otherwise specified.

1. Review the second floor layout for joist spacing. Note all openings, headers, and details of deck framing setback from the edge of the timber frame at the balcony.
2. Cut and install the outside rim band sections between the second floor posts. Then the 16" centers can be measured and marked along each eave wall in one layout. Floor joist framing is shipped long and meant to bypass at the floor beams but may have to be trimmed to meet local code for acceptable bypass distance. If you choose to butt the joists at the floor beams, a plywood gusset should be installed to tie the joist ends together.
Joists should be nailed to the rim band, and to each other where they bypass, with four 16d nails, and toe nailed to the supporting beams or wall plates with two 16d nails. Rim bands should be nailed to the posts and the timber girt or walls with 16d nails on 16' centers. X bracing should be installed at this time.
3. The Tongue and Groove decking should be installed with construction adhesive on each joist. The Advantek should be screwed or nailed with 8d nails on 6" centers along the edge and 12" center in the field of each sheet. Trim the starting sheets 1-1/2" at the center offset to maintain centers.

3.4.1 Joists and Plywood Floor

With the Yankee Barn closed wall system, the second floor is supported by the structural timber frame at all points, and the joist and tim band are installed flush with the outside face of the timber frame.
With the Yankee Barn open wall system, second floor framing at the perimeter is supported by the walls, and the floor frame is installed flush to the outside of the wall framing, so the wall sheathing can continue past the floor frame.

3.4.2 Laminated Planking
Yankee Barn laminated planking should be installed after you have a weathertight shell as it is important to protect the laminated decking from moisture. Use scaffolding or a catwalk around the inside perimeter of the building to work from as you install the upper frame and roof. See Section 7.4 for installation instructions.

To Assemble the structural frame above the second floor:

1. Assemble scaffolding in the clerestory cathedral ceiling area in preparation for installation of the uppermost roof beams. Some builders choose to build a temporary second floor platform, with framing and plywood, around the perimeter of the open area.
Second Floor, Posts and Plates


2. On the ground, check the length and notching of the heavy timber roof beams. Where possible, we design these so each end set of beams can be installed first and the center pair last. Plumb the tops of the posts that will suport the roof beams and check the measurements. Brace securely in place.
3. Install attic beams supporting the attic (if any).
4. Either with a telescoping forklift or four strong workers, lift the roof beams into position on top of the posts. Check to see that the frame dimensions have been held before nailing. Pre-drill and screw each half-lap joint from the top. Choose the screw length that will allow a minimum of 4" penetration into the posts.
5. Check long point measurements of Tie Beams. If these are at all long, they will hold the roof panels off of the roof beams.
6. Install the ridge posts on the tie beams. Then install the ridge, checking all measurements on the ground before lifting into place. String line the center of the ridge and straighten where possible. Install temporary bracing from ridge to roof beams to help straighten the ridge and prevent movement of the frame while roof panels are installed.
Roof Beams, Rafters, Tie Beams, Ridge Posts and Ridge



7. Plumb the corner posts above the second floor and brace well. Pre-assemble the top plate line on the second floor and check the overall length. Intermediate posts may need to be moved into correct location. Lift plate pieces into place and spike.
8. String line the outside eave walls and plumb intermediate posts.
9. Install the gable end rafters between the plate and roof beam and the roof beam and ridge.

3.6.1 Dormers
Yankee Barn Homes offers several types of dormers. See photographs and illustrations on following pages. Gable style dormers (as compared to shed style) are the most common. Gable dormers can be a variety of shapes. The roof of gable dormers can extend all the way to the eave of the main house, or the corners of the dormer can be clipped back. The dormer can end flush with the wall of the house, or the wall and dormer can be bumped out to add extra space. Shed dormers by their nature have less variety, mainly varying in size rather than shape.

Gable Dormer Design Considerations
The slope of any gable dormer’s roof must match the slope of the main house roof if the dormer will be built with timber frame and roof panels. Except for the smallest dormers, the ridge of the dormer must intersect the roof of the main house where there is a beam to support it. For most Yankee Barns, this means that the top of the dormer must be at the height of the roof beam (about half way up the main house roof), or at the ridge beam (at the top of the main house roof).
The maximum width of dormer is limited to the width of the main house for dormers that connect at the ridge (Ridge Beam Dormers), and a narrower dimension for dormers that connect at the roof beam (Roof Beam Dormers). See Table for dimensions. The dormers can be made narrower by clipping the edges of the roof back.

These design factors apply to frames with the beams running the length of the house (Mark I, Prairie Barn and Hampton). Frames based on “A” frame rafters running across the house (Carriage House, Cape, and Saltbox) are more limiting with dormers because of the roof rafters every eight feet. The width of a dormer is limited to the space between the rafters (i.e. eight feet wide), and dormers are not usually put on these buildings because of the cost compared with the limited amount of space gained.
Gable dormers can be designed to incorporate a bump out extension or ell on the side of the house. This works well with a center Great Room, where the side of the main building and the gable dormer can be bumped out four, eight, or more feet, to expand the Great Room. A common use of the bump out is to provide additional space on the second floor.

Shed Dormer Design Considerations
Shed dormers can have a variety of roof slopes (although standard roofing requires at least a 3 in 12 pitch). Shed dormers will also begin and end at a supporting beam. They will start at the ridge and end at the roof beam, or start at the roof beam and end at the outside edge of the roof, or even run all the way from the ridge to outside edge of the roof.

Dormer Construction Considerations
Larger dormers create substantial loads on the frame of the main house, where the dormer joins the main house. This is particularly true of dormers that meet the main house at the ridge beam. A structural ridge beam is standard, and occasionally the ridge beam as well as the ridge beam of the dormer may be made from glulam beams. A steel hanger is used to transfer the loads from the dormer ridge and valley beams to the ridge beam of the main house. Sometimes a steel hanger is required on smaller dormers as well.
In most cases, Yankee Barn will provide pre-assembled cheek walls for the dormers. If not, material will be supplied for construction on site by the builder.

Conventionally Framed Dormers
Dormers may also be framed using conventional rafters, without a timber frame. In this case the slope of the dormer can be steeper than the main house roof, or the dormer can be an odd width. Conventional framing is always used on buildings with a conventional rafter and plywood roof system. On timber frame structures, conventional framing is often used for smaller dormers (e.g. under 8' wide), where timber framing would be overkill. Beginning in January, 2007, Yankee Barn began designing and building open roof panels (without insulation and inside finish) as a standard option for (Timber) frameless dormers.
With a conventionally framed dormer, either Yankee Barn Homes or the builder can supply the framing lumber (check your specifications). Yankee Barn Homes may supply precut common rafters, but other rafters such as the jack and valley rafters must be cut on site. Yankee Barn Homes usually supplies extra siding and trim, and if the inside ceiling is V-pine, Yankee Barn Homes supplies extra boards so the builder can finish the dormer on site to match the rest of the house.

3.6.2. Dormers Frame Installation Instructions
The valley rafters have to be installed exactly per plans in order for the roof panels to fit correctly on the beams. Review the post and beam layouts for member location and size. Always put up the main building frame first. The sequence of beams differs with the different types of dormers. On the upper end of all valleys, the ridge/roof beam, dormer ridge, and center of the valley rafters are always flush where they meet. See Illustration 3.6.3B: Steel Beam Hanger.

Clip back dormer sequence (with or without bump out):

1. Main frame (and bump out)
2. Dormer Rafters & Dormer Plates
3. Gable Rafters, Tie Beam, and Dormer Ridge Post
4. Dormer Ridge with hanger
5. Valley Rafter

Illustration 3.6.2A: Clip Back Dormer Frame

To assemble the clip back dormer frame
(see Illustration 3.6.2A: Clip Back Dormer Frame)

1. Install the top of the dormer rafter against the roof/ridge beam and into the notch in the eave post at the bottom. The dormer plate sits on the eave post and the dormer rafter.
Illustration 3.6.2B: Detail


2. Place the gable rafters, tie beam, and dormer ridge post in position and then install the dormer ridge. The dormer ridge is flush with the top of the roof beam/ridge. Be sure to install any ridge hangers at the roof/ridge beam end. See Section 3.6.3: Dormer Fasteners and Hangers.
3. Install the valley rafters. The lower end of the valley rafter will fit against the side of the dormer rafter. Your layouts show the dimension from the roof/ridge beam down to the centerline of where the valley rafter meets the dormer rafter (see Illustration 3.6.2B).
   With a tight tape, measure the distance from the two centerline points for the dormer valley rafter, and check this against the valley rafters. Trim if necessary, but if close, dry fit the valley to check the fit. Any necessary trimming is best done in small steps to avoid over cutting.

Non clip-back dormer sequence (no bump out):
(See illustration 3.6.2C)

1. Main house beams
2. Dormer Ridge temporarily supported at the gable
3. Valley Rafter
4. Gable Rafter, Tie Beam , and Dormer Ridge Post

Illustration 3.6.2C: Non-clip Back, No Bump Out Dormer Frame

To assemble the dormer frame for non-clip back, no bump out:

1. Check the layout as to which type of dormer ridge hanger is required. Install the hanger, and then the dormer ridge flush with the top of the roof/ridge beam. See Section 3.6.3: Dormer Fasteners and Hangers.
2. Support the dormer ridge at the gable end with a temporary post and brace in position. Using a 3-4-5 triangle, check to see that the dormer ridge is perpendicular to the roof beam and centered between the gable posts.
3. Install the valley rafters. The bottom end of the valley rafter is notched to sit in a notch on the top of the 8x8 support post and over the plate beams. The top of the valley rafter should project down flush with the outside of the plate. At the upper end of the valley rafter, the ridge/roof beam, dormer ridge, and center of the valley rafter are always flush where they meet. See Illustration 3.6.2D: Detail. The valley rafter is cut 1" long to allow for adjustments at top and bottom. To determine the amount to cut off the valley rafter, measure the distance between the points, check the angles. It is best to cut a little off at a time until you get the correct fit.
4. Install the gable rafters and tie beam, and dormer ridge post. You may have to trim the lower ends of the gable rafter and/or the valley rafter where they meet.

llustration 3.6.2D: Detail

Illustration 3.6.2E: Non-clip Back, Bump Out Dormer Frame

3.6.3 Dormer Fasteners and Hangers
Two methods are used to attach a dormer ridge to the roof beam or ridge beam of the main structure.

1. Simpson CJT Hanger: See Illustration 3.6.3A. This hanger is a stamped plate in the shape of a "T". One flange screws to the side of the ridge or roof beam.
The other flange fits into a pre-cut slot in the end of the dormer ridge and steel pins are driven into pre-drilled holes in the ridge and the plate.
In order to correctly locate the hanger on the roof beam or ridge, slide the flange of the hanger that is perforated for the pins into the slot in the end of the dormer ridge. Align the pre-drilled holes with the hanger plate and measure from the top of the dormer ridge to the top of the hanger plate. Transfer this measurement to the roof beam or ridge of the house and screw the hanger centered on the center line of the dormer. Make sure the relieved space on the end of the dormer ridge is adequate for the plate and screwheads, so the dormer ridge will sit flush to the house beam. The dormer ridge slides onto the hanger plate from below and the pins are driven in from either side.

Illustration 3.6.3A: Simpson CJT Hanger

Illustration 3.6.3B: MSC Hanger
This is a pre-formed top flange hanger that mounts on the house roof beam or ridge at the dormer centerline and provides a saddle type hanger for the dormer ridge and valley rafters.

Valley Rafter to Dormer Rafter on clip back dormers: Dormers are through bolted with two back to back shear plates between the pieces. For smaller dormers, valley rafters may be lagged or bolted to the dormer rafter. To install bolts for shear plates, place the valley rafter in place and drill a 3/4" hole through the dormer rafter and the valley rafter. (If lag bolts are specified, a smaller diameter pre-drill hole will be required and the appropriate Shear Plate Bit will be included in the grocery box) Be sure to drill holes so the shear plate (2 5/8" diameter) is concealed by the valley rafter. Remove the valley rafter and drill the concealed sides of the valley and dormer rafters with the shear plate bit which is available on loan from Yankee Barn Homes. The flat sides of the shear plates should be together.

Valley Rafter to Post: Screw or lag per layout.

Valley Rafter to Ridge/Roof Beam: If no steel beam hanger is specified, bolt through both valley rafters or nail or lag from roof beam into the valley rafters.

Rather than being framed with beams running lengthwise down the house, the Carriage House, Guest House, Studio Cape, and Studio Saltbox frames are built with A-frame rafters spanning the full width of the building every 8' to 12', and a structural ridge perpendicular to the rafters. The tie beam is fastened to the rafters with concealed steel plates and self drilling screws. The ridge is secured to the rafters with lag bolts or concealed CJT hangers. No interior posts are required to support the roof. Decorative purlins cover joints in the ceiling finish and are installed with log screws.

To assemble A-frame rafters:

1. Install the frame up to plates as in 3.4.
   Differences in framing techniques are summarized below.
2. Begin by assembling the first set of A-frame rafters on the second floor deck:
   
   1. The steel plates will be factory installed into the tie beams. Slide the projecting plate into the slot in the adjoining rafter and check that the tie beam location meets the specifications.
   2. Carefully check the outside to outside measurement at the rafter tails when the ridge is tight.
   3. Using a high speed drill, screw the self-tapping truss screws into the beam and through the plate. Your plans will indicate the number of screws required.
   4. Repeat the above process for all A-frames, stacking one on top of the other.
3. After installing additional temporary bracing, using a crane, lift the first gable A-frame and then install and brace it.
4. Using the crane, lift the next A-frame enough to predrill and lag the plates to the back of the tie beam. Move 8' down the length of the house, and install the A-frame. Install the steel hangers, purlins, and ridge as you proceed.

To assemble A-frames "Y" Plates

Partial frame structures have less post and beam frame and use the exterior wall panels to help support the second floor and roof loads. Floor and roof loads in the middle of the building are supported by the post and beam frame (specifically, by the floor beams and roof beams). Loads at the perimeter are carried by the walls, which are usually “open” panels framed with 2 x 6’s.
There may be additional decorative posts and beams that are put in after the shell is up and the drywall installed. These beams will not be notched or cut to length.
The second floor system consists of conventional joists and plywood. Because the second floor is partially supported by the wall system, the post and beam frame is assembled up to the second floor level, and then the first floor walls are installed. The second floor system is then installed on the top of the walls and floor beams. See Section 3.4.1 Joists and Plywood Floor.

3.8.1 Partial Frame Raising Sequence