CAUTION:

Roof panel installation will require working on the roof surface. Yankee Barn Homes strongly recommends the use off fall protection and fall arrest equipment.

 

 

Chapter 5

Installation of Roof Panels
5.0 Roof Panels

This chapter explains the installation of Yankee Barn roof panels on your home. When complete, your shell is ready for exterior siding and trim, roofing, and interior finishing.

5.1 Description of Roof Panel System

5.1.1 Vented Roof Panel System
Yankee Barn roof panels are conventionally framed, pre-insulated roof sections, 8' wide x 8' to 20' long. They are insulated with a rigid insulation board and have a vent space above the insulation. The vent space keeps the shingles cool and helps prevent ice dams.
The bottom surface forms the cathedral ceiling in rooms below. Available interiors include drywall, shiplap pine, as well as the standard, pre-finished V-groove pine with Yankee Barn's Wedgeloc roof connection system which eases installation on site. The Wedgeloc system ensures a tight fitting connection between roof panels. The top surface is CDX plywood, ready for roofing. Panels are supported by beams and structural walls.

QUICK GUIDE

What you need:

  • 2 x 4 x 84" pieces for cleats: 3-4 per roof panel.
  • 12" or 14" Log Screws, 8d and 20d nails, 16d Duplex nails - Included
  • 3/8" self sticking Foam Tape, 1-3/8" foam "noodles" and expanding foam spray- included
  • Construction adhesive - included
  • Drill bits - 1/4"
  • 2" to 3" wide ratchet straps.25 to 30' long are best
  • 70'+ cable crane and double loop web straps with "D" shackles or heavy duty carabineers
  • 50' Tag line
  • 15# roofing felt or Tri-Flex and fasteners
  • 4-5 Carpenters/Laborers plus Yankee Barn Shell Specialist

Installation:

  1. Double check that eave and gable walls are plumb and straight after installation.
  2. Check roof beams and ridge for straightness, and install 2x bracing to prevent bending during roof installation.
  3. Snap a line along centerline of the ridge and check that the ridge is square to the gable end walls.
  4. Install 3 sections of round foam gasket("noodle") on top of eave walls.
  5. Ground Preparation:
    1. On a flat area accessible to the crane, lay out a large tarp and 2x4 sticking on 36" centers. Bottom skid from wall packages works well for this.
    2. Locate roof panel package with starter panel, move to staging area and lay out panels on the sticking.
    3. Install foam tape to the "T" edge of the starter panel, near the top of the rafter.
    4. Start the 10" (at the eve wall) and 12" (or 14") Log Screws in the pre-drilled holes.
    5. Install the 2x4 cleats to the CDX for staging.
    6. Install 4 double lifting plates (see 5.2.2d) and connect to crane straps.
  6. By consulting the roof panel plans and measuring the first panel to be applied, determine the appropriate distance in from the left gable, mark the eve wall, roof beam and ridge at this measurement, and install Stop Blocks to the lines. This eliminates the need to "eyeball" the line while maneuvering the panels.
  7. Squirt a bead of expanding foam along the top of the starting-end gable wall and to the exterior side of the round foam gasket at the eaves.
  8. Lift and set the first panel into place. Check that it is aligned 1/4" off of center at the ridge and at the correct overhang at the eave and gable end wall. Take extra care to ensure the panel is square to the eve wall and frame.Tack to the ridge and eave wall to hold in place, and screw the panel to the ridge, roof beam, eave wall and gable wall. Do not screw tight the fasteners immediatly adjacent to the next panel.
  9. Repeat ground preparation of next panel while installed panel is being fastened. (Station one worker inside to check the fit of the V-groove ceiling.)
  10. Lift next panel into place (be sure to foam the eave wall and apply the glue to the places indicated in illustration 5.2.2A), adjust height at ridge and pry top over to marry the V-groove. Nail the leading rafter to the ridge to hold V-groove tight.
  11. Using nailing plates and ratchet straps or come-along, work from the top down and pull the roof panels together until V-groove is tight. You might have to pry the two panels up and down from the inside above the roof beam to achieve a fit. Jumping on the two panels sometimes helps.
  12. Screw new panel into place, except for the row of fasteners closest to the next panel.
  13. Adjusting End Panel:
    Before prepping last panel, measure at several points along the next-to-last panel so last panel can be modified to fit the space. Do this on the ground before installation.
  14. Install ridge champfer strip and install the remaining side of the roof.
  15. Cover roof with 15# felt paper or Tri-Flex to protect from the weather.

TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS:

  1. Lifting plates need to be screwed to the rafters, NOT JUST THE PLYWOOD.
  2. 8' wide panels require four lifting plates
  3. Take the time to train everyone to watch for these details. The more eyes, the better, so no detail is left out.
5.2 Installation of the Roof Panels

5.2.1 Blueprints
Refer to your roof panel plan to determine the exact layout and starting point. You will note that many of the roof panels are interchangeable to ease installation. The panels are labeled “R” and a number.

Illustration 5.2.2A: Roof Panel Connection Detail



5.2.2 Preparation
While the panels are on the ground, apply a continuous strip of foam tape (Emseal) to the tongue side of each succeeding panel near the top of the rafter. Attach the double lifting plates (per instructions) to the rafters. Install the roof blocks for the workers on the roof.

Workers on the roof should install the 1" foam rod at the top of the eave wall and just before each panel is placed, spray a generous bead of foam just to the outside of this foam rod. Be careful to foam the width of one panel at a time. Also, apply a continuous bead of construction adjesive to the top of the exposed area of the previous rafter.

At the ends of the building, spray expanding foam along the top of the gable walls. On buildings with gable roof overhangs, it is just as easy to foam the top of the gable walls later, when you are putting on the exterior trim. If required on your roof layout install structural chamfer strips at plate and roof beam before placing the roof.
Illustration 5.2.2B: Eave Detail


Illustration 5.2.2C: Ridge Detail



Illustration 5.2.2D: Lifting Instructions for Roof Panels
HINT: Stepping or “saw-toothing” of roof panels can be minimized by having your ridge beam perfectly straight and level.

To align and place panels:

Begin by verifying that you have perfectly straight and level eave plates, roof beams, and ridge beams, and that they are securely braced. If your building width is off or your plate has a crown or a bow it will force the ridge alignment to be slightly off. Snap a chalk line down the centerline of the ridge beam. This will serve as an alignment point for the top ends of the panels. Carefully note specified gable overhangs. This dimension is specified on your roof panel plan.

Take particular care in handling the panels not to allow any dirt, scratches, or footprints to mar the interior finish.
HINT: Lifting plates will not hold unless all screws penetrate the rafter framing.

5.2.3 Positioning The Roof Panels

To position the panels:

  1. Station one worker at each of the three fastening locations (these are the top plate, roof beam, and the ridge).
  2. Lift the panel with the panel lifting clips. Take care to protect the panel from damage as it leaves the ground and while it hangs freely from the crane. A tag line helps guide the panels into place.
  3. Position the first panel square with the ridgeline of the house, and align the top of the panel with the centerline of the ridge beam. Check that you have the specified overhangs at the gable wall. These dimensions are specified on your roof plan. Since this first panel will serve as a key for all the other panels, it is useful to run a “3-4-5” triangle check when setting it. After tacking the panel at the ridge, do a “3-4-5” traiangle using the plate beam and the edge of the panel to check that it is square before nailing it off.
  4. When positioning the second and subsequent panels, fit the panels together tightly, checking the kerf or V-groove lines for proper alignment. The V-groove lines at each joint should be perfectly even, and no wider or narrower than the other V-groove lines across the face of the paneling. Slight misalignment along the eaves will be covered later by the trim boards.
  5. Be careful not to mar the finish on the bottom surface.
Roof panels are "flown in" by crane, then fastened into place.

 

 

Hint HINT: On roofs with multiple dormers on one side, it is very important not to allow the roof panels to grow as they cross the roof. Spending extra time to meet the dimensions will prevent having to modify panels to fit as you progress across the roof.

5.2.4 Fastening

To fasten the roof panels:

 

  1. Refer to your roof layout for fastener size and location. Hold the starter panel in its proper position (the crane should be able to provide a little bit of tension to help accomplish this), drive a small nail through the side of the panel into the top plate to temporarily hold the panel. Check the predrilled holes for correct positioning in relation to the plates and roof beams. If the holes are correct, (if something is misaligned, drill new holes in the correct location). Drive in the nearest screw at the plate line.
  2. Check to make sure that the panel has held its proper alignment and finish screwing the panel at the eave, roof beam and ridge.
  3. Subsequent panels should be toe nailed to each other every 16" with 20d galvanized nails. Then nail the plywood lap to the 2x6 framing on the adjacent panel with 8d nails 6" on center. On roofs with a drywall interior, screw the drywall lap to the adjacent panel with drywall screws 8" on center. Additional screws should be put through the roof panels where they cross the gable wall panels. Predrill and use 12" screws 16" on center.
  4. The last panel on each side of the roof is made so that its width can be adjusted on site to hold the proper rake overhang. Measure the distance from the last panel to the gable wall, at both the eave and the peak (it may vary slightly), add the overhang dimension, and then cut the ending panel on the ground before installation.
  5. After installing panels on one side of the building, prepare the ridge before starting the second side. Install the Thermax chamfer strips on the ridge. Put a bead of construction adhesive on the chamfer strips before sliding them against the roof panels that are in place. On the other side, run a bead of construction adhesive and expanding foam insulation on the chamfer strip, just before each panel.
  6. Install panels on the second side of the roof. We have designed an intentional 1/2" gap at the ridge which allows for some saw tooth and provides a space to seal with expanding foam.

5.2.5 Dormer Roofs
Yankee Barn offers several styles of dormers to enhance the building design. See Section 3.6.1: Dormers. Dormers will require additional time on site to cut, fit, and adjust.
Timber framed dormers use standard Yankee Barn Homes roof panels. The panels are designed to fit but may require some cutting and trimming to install.

In most cases, adjacent roof panels at the inside corners of dormers will have the rafter tails cut back in order to eliminate interference with each other. The material and labor for completion of the overhang support at this intersection is the responsibility of the builder.

Builders should include time and material to in-fill the rafter tails at dormer to main roof intersections. This is an extreme example. In most cases, only a few rafters are left plumb cut at the eaves.

 

 

Hint

 

Example of the corner in-fill completed by builder.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HINT:Follow dimensions on your roof layout. Make sure panels fit tightly so they don't grow as they are assembled. Always start the first panel square to the frame.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Review the plans to determine the start location for the first panel. Always install the main roof first. Dimensions specified on the roof layout for panel location are to the panel’s interior skin at the edge of the panel. Check your layout for structural chamfer strips, CS-S and CS-VR locations. Install the structural (CS-VR) chamfer strips before the crane arrives. (See Illustration 5.2.6B: Adjustment Gap and Chamfer Strips). Structural chamfer strips, CS-S, are triangular wood strips installed to provide bearing for roof panels.
Hold the dormer panel the prescribed dimension from the gable wall or overhang, square to the eave and center on the ridge at the top. Since the first panel will serve as a key for all other panels it is useful to run a “3-4-5” triangle check when setting it to be sure it is square to the eave. (See Illustration 5.2.5A: Start and Work Point).

Illustration 5.2.5A: Start and Work Point
HINT: On roofs with multiple dormers on one side, it is very important not to allow the roof panels to grow as they cross the roof. Spending extra time to meet the dimensions will prevent having to modify panels to fit as you progress across the roof.

To allow for beams being off slightly and for panel growth the dormer panels are designed to have up to a 2" adjustment gap at the valley. Be sure the dormer panels have at least 1" of bearing on the ridge and valley beams. (See Illustration 5.2.5B: Valley Adjustment Gap and Chamfer Strips).

Illustration 5.2.5B: Valley Adjustment Gap and Chamfer Strips

Differences between installation of Main Roof Panels above the dormers
 Ridge dormers have a gap between panels at the intersection of the ridge and dormer ridge. Roof beam dormer panels fit tight, and the v-groove center over the dormer ridge at the intersection of the roof beam and dormer ridge. (See Illustration 5.2.5A: Start and Work Point).
On clip back dormers the main house roof panels must be carefully notched around the dormer post and rafter. The panel may have to be test fitted in place, and then lowered to the ground to be notched. Extra time taken in fitting and notching the roof panel will be saved many times over when finishing the interior of the house. If necessary remove one piece of V-groove and install later when you have more time.
Follow dimensions on your roof layout. Make sure panels fit tightly so they don’t grow as they are assembled. Always start the first panel square to the frame.

MAIN ROOF PANEL SEQUENCE (ABOVE THE DORMER):

  1. Review your plans to see the starting location of the first panel and the relationship to the valley rafter.
  2. Set the first panel as shown on your roof layout, making sure it is centered on the ridge and square to the eave and ridge. See Illustration 5.2.6A: Start and Work Point. Use a “3-4-5” triangle to check that is square to the eave and ridge.
  3. On clip back dormers, layout the location of the panel on the dormer rafter noting where to scribe the panel around the frame. Set the first panel into location marking the scribe (cut lines) where the panel intersects the dormer post and plate. Lower the panel back to the ground and make the appropriate cuts. Try the fit of the panel re-cutting if necessary. Some builders have made a small 1/2" to 1" deep notch in the frame to slide the v-groove into instead of scribing the v-groove around the frame members.
  4. Fasten the panel at the roof/ridge beams and eave.
  5. Continue installing the panels working toward the dormer ridge (your plan shows the desired width of panels as they are assembled).
  6. On roof beam dormers the goal is to have the panel v-groove joint centered on the centerline of the dormer ridge.
  7. On ridge dormers there is some adjustment at the centerline of the dormer ridge. Panels on the right side of the dormer must be started the prescribed dimension from the centerline of the dormer ridge to insure they end at the correct location.
  8. Continue across the dormer until you reach the last dormer panel. On clip back, mark, scribe and cut as necessary at the dormer rafter post/plate intersection.

Dormer Panels
Clip back dormer panels are designed short where they intersect the main roof over the dormer eave wall. This minimizes cutting and it is a lot easier to fill in these gaps and infill the overhang later than to try and scribe and cut the panel on crane day. (See Illustration 5.2.5D: Dormer and Roof Panel Layout).

Illustration 5.2.6D: Dormer Roof Panel Layout

Dormer Roof
The panels are designed to be installed starting from the main roof and work out toward the gable wall. The ending panels have been designed to be cut to fit on the end at the wall or overhang.

To install dormer roof panels:

  1. Install the first panel the prescribed dimension, centered on the dormer ridge, and square to the ridge. (See Illustration 5.2.5D: Dormer and Roof Panel Layout).
  2. If the panel is small, nail the first and second panel together on the ground and install together. Set up a “3-4-5” triangle at the dormer ridge and outer edge of the roof panel to be sure the first panel is square to the ridge. This will make it easier to square to the valley and ridge.
  3. Tack the first panel into place. The panels are designed with up to a 1" adjustment gap at the valley end of the panel. The gap between the panels will be foam filled later. After installing the second panel you may have to adjust the starting panel. Make sure the panels bear on the valley rafter by at least 1". (See Illustration 5.2.5B: Valley Adjustment and Chamfer Strips).
  4. Install the remainder of the panels, adjusting the last panel width as necessary.

On clip back dormers, there is additional finish work done by the builder on site. Because the fascia of the dormer roof panels tapers into the main roof, this small section of roof is framed by the builder on site. The builder also frames and insulates the little triangular side walls created where the dormer is clipped back. Experience has shown it to be easier to frame these two small areas on site than to try and trim factory built panels to fit.

5.2.6 Variations on Roof Layouts
The maximum length of Yankee Barn roof panels is 22 feet. Where the roof is longer than 22', e.g. where an add-on structure is attached to the side of the main building, two roof panels may butt against each other to cover the span. Roof panels meet over a roof beam or plate beam, and a structural chamfer strip is usually supplied. The structural chamfer stips must be installed before the roof panels are set. The screws that fasten the lower end of the upper panel are algled to hit the beam, and 14" screws are used.

5.2.7 Precut Rafters
Yankee Barn offers buildings with conventional rafters. These roofs generally include rafters (mostly precut) and CDX plywood exterior skin. No crane time is required for this type of roof. Insulation and interior skin is generally supplied by the builder.
Refer to your specifications to determine what is provided. Precut rafters are installed following normal construction practices and codes. See your roof detail or layout sheet for installation details.
Yankee Barn normally cuts and notches the common rafters, but if your precut roof includes a dormer or hips, you will need to cut the hip, valley, and jack rafters on site. Check your specifications to see what materials Yankee Barn is providing. For example, Yankee Barn normally does not provide the materials for roof crickets of “roof over” sections where two roofs meet. This is usually noted on your plans.
The shell is complete and ready to finish.

The shell is now complete and ready for siding, trim, roofing and interior finishing.
 
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